Recently, I got a request for how to spend a few days in Lisbon. Sights to see and places to go that are part of the quintessential city without being too touristy.
Unfortunately the stuff that is easy access and representative is developed around the city. That said it is still a magical and charming place and must be seen by foot as car travel around the city is the slowest option from point to point with in the downtown core.
I recommend a half day in Biaxa near Rua Garret and Praça Camões (This doesn't include the big squares of Restauradores and Rossio and the Carmelite nunnery) followed by another half day exploring Alfama (Fado museum). As far as night life Barrio Alto is the place to go.
The touristy part of Sintra is a pleasant quaint hill town, think Vail or Lake Tahoe area of its day. If you are sporty you can walk up to the moorish castle and Pena Palace which are on the ridge line or you can take the bus and stroll the grounds. There is a really cool garden in Sintra as well.
Belém is really part of the greater Lisbon metropolis now. There is much to see. What makes the high points on the tourist map are the tower (torre) and the pastry shop (pasteis de Belém) but I honestly think it is only worth about 1/2 a day. Other than that there is a carriage museum, planetarium, garden, monument to progress, electricity museum, monastery, and the CCB. The CCB (Centre Cultural de Belém) is pretty cool venue for art. I haven't personally been to the planetarium, garden or inside the monument to progress again it depends on your wishes.
There is one caveat about all this walking: that it won't be raining cats and dogs. This is the rainy season through March. It could rain every day you are here.
One other thing: I am a guy who looks Portuguese. I don't think there are any problems going anywhere as a single female in the city during the day; even one who is obviously a tourist. I have been told that Barrio Alto can be dangerous when the bars close (around 4am) but having a small child at home I can't say that I have been out that late here :).
One other point I would like to make about food: people eat large lunches around 1 or 2 and don't eat dinner until 9. If you are used to having dinner at 6 it is too early for most restaurants. Pregos or bifanas are a nice protein snack (fried meat on bread). If you are a vegetarian who doesn't eat fish you'll have limited options. If you like fish I really like Dourada Grelhada (Grilled Sea Bream) but smaller fish don't come filleted.
Rob
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